Was putting one of these back together after adjusting the safety. I pushed the barrel/locking block into place, but it stopped just as the two small nubs in the back of the frame where just wanting to enter the slots in the slide. Didn’t want to force it, so I tried to take off the slide/upper assembly and it only will come back about 1″. It think the locking block or something slipped out of place during assembly.
So, right now, I can’t get the pistol together or apart. I took out the firing pin so I could see inside and as I bring the slide forward, it looks like the locking block is coming up and preventing further movement forward.
Anyone have any ideas re how to get this damn thing apart? I’ve tried about everything I know to do except force it and I don’t want to spoil the internals both for cost and delay in delivering this back to the owner (promised Thursday delivery).
HELP!
Thanks.
Wolfgang
How far did you disassemble the pistol for the repair? I read one could reverse the rocker coupling (#22) and have the gun locked up. There is way to unlock it but it will be a real pita.
When assembling the pistol, the lock mechanism should securely snap onto the under side of the upper. The snapping is the rocker coupling hooks onto the locking block. Did you have that snapping when you putting the gun together? Looks like the lock mechanism just dropped off the upper. The lower won’t clear out unless the lock mechanism is pushed up back to the “snapped” position. It is likely the rocker coupling was installed incorrectly.
Do a google search and you may be able to find the method to undo a locked c96 due to incorrectly installed rocker coupling. I think it must involve prying the lock mechanism up to clear the lower frame.
-TL
Question Follow up
I was able to get it apart. I think the rocker coupling unsnapped when I was putting the slide on. Had to bend a long, thin screwdriver to get in to the end of the mainspring and push it far enough back to allow the coupling to disengage. Thanks for the advice.
Originally, I was working on the safety. I was difficult to put it all the way onto “Safe”. If it didn’t go all the way to safe and the trigger was pulled, the hammer would drop when the lever was then moved to the “Fire” position. I found the safety had a twist to it which caused the hard movement to the safe notch. I corrected that, but now the pistol will fire even if the lever is all the way in the safe notch, trigger pulled and then moved to the fire position. So, if I put it on “Safe”, pull the trigger (can hear and feel a small “click”) and then move the safety lever back to “Fire”, the hammer will drop. If I don’t pull the trigger while on “Safe”, the safety works just fine. This pistol is a rental at a firing range and I am very concerned with the safety being this way. A person could easily forget the pistol was on “Safe”, pull the trigger, then realize it was on safe and naturally move it to “Fire” with the result that the gun goes off w/o pulling the trigger. Sounds like a recipe for a terrible accident or even tragedy.
Is it normal for the C96s to act this way? I think this pistol has the 3rd style safety. How does the safety work, i.e. what does it interfere w/ that keeps the pistol from firing? Not at all sure how to fix this one. Suggests/comments most welcome.
Answer
The safety blocks the hammer and lifts it off the sear. It is important that the hammer notch is indeed lifted off the hammer when the safety is engaged, otherwise you will have the Remington 700-like trigger problem. Trigger is pulled while in safe. The hammer notch slips under the sear (the light click). The trigger is released. The hammer notch stays under the sear. The hammer is only blocked from dropping by the safety. It will go as soon as the safety is out of the way. Take out the lock mechanism. Observe the hammer notch versus the sear while working the safety. When in safe, there MUST be gap between the hammer notch and the sear.
The safety acts on the hollow cut in the hammer. Either the safety or the hammer (or both) may have been worn in your case. It is not kosher as it is.
Getting the parts have become difficult and expensive. It can be done with patience and $$. Certainly worn parts can be repaired by building up metal. It may be cheaper, but still needs time. -TL
Answer
Ken shows a complete disassembly/assembly of the Broomhandle in Gun Tech #6 on the old inner circle monthly which now is the inner circle. I use it occasionally when working on the 96. Ken does an excellent job in the complete process as he does always on the D/A segments. Nick
Answer
Like TL says the safety holds the hammer off of the sear. Some versions cam the hammer back and off of the sear and some you have to pull the hammer back slightly for the safety to be engaged fully and hold the hammer back off of the sear. Ken